Motorcycles in a Bucket
It seemed like a bargain, “classic motorcycle fully disassembled in plastic containers (buckets), worth $20,000 when assembled.” After purchasing for the bargain price of $2,000, the new owner finds there are a few flaws in his plan, such as:
· Where do all these bits go?
· Not all of the parts are from the same bike
· Engine and frame numbers don’t match
· The engine is locked solid
· It will cost $20,000 to restore it
The above are just a few of the problems awaiting the unwary, but it’s not all bad news. Occasionally, someone will buy a motorcycle and fully disassemble it with every intention of restoring it, only to run out of time, money, or commitment. As long as he or she simply wants to sell the bike at a realistic price, the buyer may well end up with a bargain.
So, having bought a “motorcycle in plastic containers,” how does the new owner go about sorting all the parts out? The bottom line here is that unless the new owner is fully conversant with the make, model and year of the bike, he must sort the parts into sub-assemblies–much like the original manufacturer will have done. For example, the fuel system will consist of the following:
· Carb body complete with all assembly screws
· Slide with needle and clip, return spring and carb top complete with cable adjusters
· Floats complete with pivot bar and carb float chamber and fuel flow valve
· Jets, primary and main
· Throttle and choke cables (where fitted)
· Choke assembly
· Air filter complete with carb to filter tube
Sub-Assemblies
· The major subassemblies of a motorcycle are:
· Frame, forks and swing arm complete with suspension items
· Braking systems
· Electrical systems including lights, harness and switches
· Engine and gearbox
· Fuel tank and panels (include fairings in this subassembly)
· Handle bars, levers and switches
· Miscellaneous items such as the exhaust system, seat and racks etc.
As the new owner is sorting the various parts out, he should make a note of items that must be replaced, restored, painted or re-plated. In addition, he should loosely assemble the various subassemblies as this will identify any future assembly problems. Two examples of which are: missing hardware or engine cases that need heli-coils fitting.
The next phase of sorting the various parts is to decide what needs replacing, since, on some machines, finding parts may take some time. Typically, the replacement parts’ list will contain mainly engine and gearbox parts as the new owner will want to have a reliable machine, having spent a lot of time and money on the project. Therefore, he must fully inspect the engine and gearbox for damaged or worn parts.
If the engine and gearbox parts are all within specification, and without any signs of damage, the new owner should replace all bearings, seals and bushes as most of these items will require a full engine rebuild - in most cases - to replace them at a later date.
Rebuild Schedule
Timing of a rebuild is important. For example, while the engine and gearbox are being rebuilt, the frame and swing arm can be outsourced (where applicable) for powder coating, plating, or painting.
Reassembly of the bike should start with the replacement of the engine and gearbox (taking great care not to damage the new finish on the frame). Alternatively, some mechanics prefer to assemble the rolling frame first, and then place it onto the bike’s center stand before fitting then engine and gearbox.
Fitting the wiring harness is an important job in the rebuild process as the location of the various wires can have a detrimental effect on the bike’s electrical reliability. For example, all wiring must be protected from chafing on the cycles parts, and must be clear of any heat sources such as the exhaust system. Finally, the handlebars must be able to turn freely without pulling on the wiring harness.
Hopefully, by the time the bike is reassembled, the plastic containers will all be empty, but don’t be surprised if there are a few leftovers. It happens to the best!
Source...